Sunday, March 08, 2009
No Photos.... But Hey...
Thank god for the internet- I have ordered my sleeping bag, spork (cross between spoon and fork- think spoon with prongs in super light titanium...) tiny tiny three legged stove and a titan 'kettle' (pot with lid) so that's the cooking sorted. Also got some dehydrated meals which will hopefully keep me going! Went to Tescos yesterday and picked up sunblock and storage bags which stand up and hold boiling water. Perfect for decanting pot noodles into!
Right- what did I do in the Lakes? Thursday I decided on the Fairfield Horseshoe, which is a horseshoe shaped ridge walk along the fells north of Ambleside. I'd done it before, but the weather was a bit dodgy- lots of low lying cloud. Now I am not at all confident in my abilities to navigate in cloud...
I started to climb steeply and regretted loading the rucksack to around 8/9 Kg as I could really feel the strain on my legs- for those who know the Lakes, those paths are ste-e-ep. It was pretty easy at first, following an undulating track through the odd peat bog and over rocky outcrops (wearing proper walking boots rather than running shoes). I ascended Low Pike and High Pike but by the time I reached Dove Crag I had entered the clouds. I knew at some point the path turned left to climb Fairfield and drop down onto the opposite ridge, but by this point I couldn't see a thing and there was nobody else around. There where also large areas of snowdrifts which partly obscured the path. I found one path which didn't seem to be going anywhere so retraced my steps put my fleece on and had a coffee. I was feeling rather stressed at this point, and felt I hadn't yet gone far enough. I picked up a path (and footsteps in the snow) going left, and followed it. It did turn to the left and started climbing, but then started to descend- I obviously wasn't on Fairfield but by that point was past caring and decided that I would follow it and try to get back from wherever I ended up.
As I broke through the cloud, I saw what looked like Lake Windermere in the distance, which was good news as it meant I wasn't going too far out my way. In fact, things started to look familiar and I suddenly realised I had done a complete about-turn and was descended the path I had come up! I resigned myself to it and stopped for lunch; a collie appeared from nowhere and sat watching me hopefully. Her owners appeared and apologised, saying "Can you point to us, we can't call her cos she's deaf!" She did get a bit of my sandwich.
I dropped down to High Sweden Bridge and walked through woods back to Ambleside. After my failed attempt of the horseshoe I decided to redeem myself by walking a little further, and set off along the road towards Keswick. A footpath to the enticingly named 'Rydal Steps' seduced me, and I set off across the field, to discover that they were a set of stepping stones across a wide deep stream. Now, my balance isn't the best, and I set off hopefully across. All was ok until about 3/4 way across when I realised that there was a large gap to the next stone which was narrow and angled away from me. I froze. I just stood there trying and failing to summon the courage to step onto it. After what seemed an age, I heard a voice saying "Do you want a hand?" and a kind chap came along and gave me a hand across.
Suitably embarrassed, I walked back along the road to the car and decided to take a steeply ascending path signposted to Loughrigg for a bit more climbing. I didn't go too far though as I felt my right knee twinge a bit, so called it a day after 20 minutes. All in all I had walked around 10 miles with a fair bit of climbing so not a total disaster!
Friday my Brother-in-Law Steve had kindly taken the day off to come with me (think my sis was worried about me getting lost!) so we decided on the 'Kentmere Round'- another horseshoe walk. Steve is more into hurtling down mountains at breakneck speed on a mountain bike than walking but is pretty fit. We parked up at the little hamlet of Kentmere with its rather concrete looking church- I had a much lighter pack today. There was a lot of cloud around but it was more intermittent than yesterday. We picked up the path onto the first ridge, and climbed up to Shipman Knots. As we made our way up to Kentmere Pike it started to clear, and we could see our impressive looking return ridge. Walking up to Harter Fell we had a clear view to Kentmere- I kept taking photos but it was really windy.
We dropped down to Nan Bield Pass which Steve has cycled many times, meeting a couple of walkers and being passed by two fell runners. We had an ascent onto Mardale Ill Bell- I managed to capture a small rainbow on film! As we were then onto the lower slopes of High Street, it seemed rude not to go and 'bag' the summit- we had great views to Haweswater, although sadly these were the last views we got as the cloud rolled in for the remainder of the walk.
The return ridge took in Thornthwaite Crag, Froswick, Ill Bell and Yoke- horseshoe walks are great for peak bagging! We couldn't see much in front of us, and everytime we thought we had done with climbing, another peak would loom out of the mist in front of us. We kept going- Steve said that he has a reputation of being a bit of a 'route-marcher' and not stopping but that was fine by me- I kept up ok I think apart from going downhill (my weakness!)
We stopped for a brew once we reached Garburn Pass, and followed the track back to Kentmere- we had made pretty good time and had covered around 13 miles. I can highly recommend Wilf's Cafe in Staveley!
The forecast was pretty shit for Saturday so I decided against heroics in poor visibility... there are a couple of lower fells circling Ambleside, Wansfell and Loughrigg, but still give a decent ascent, so I decided I'd tackle them both in one day with a heavier pack than I was carrying yesterday. After an amble round Ambleside, trying to find the start and realising it was actually where I parked the car (not a good start!) I picked up a bridleway leading to Loughrigg and followed it before realising it was droppimg downhill rather than heading for the top. A quick look at the map and I picked up the right path. Loughrigg is a sprawling fell, and the path undulated its way to the trig point marking the summit. There was no view- just cloud- and luckily a clear path running down to Grasmere and Loughrigg Terrace. I don't think my walking boots have the best grip and I was sliding all over the place. Luckily the path around Loughrigg Terrace is a good one, I stopped for a coffee with a view over Grasmere.
I followed the path along the Terrace, past Rydal Caves (which you used to be able to go in but they have fenced off the entrance). I picked up a permissive path through Rydal Hall grounds back to Ambleside, looking at the looming clouds covering Wansfell. To add insult to injury it started to rain... it was so tempting to hide in a cafe with a pot of coffee and a cake instead... Ambleside was heaving, so I made myself get onwards and upwards- taking the steep road to the start of the path to Wansfell. It was raining heavily now, and I had to stop to don waterproofs. The path up to Wansfell has been flagged, and as I ascended I saw loads of people coming down but passed only one group going up. I soon found out why- the path up from Ambleside is a real slog- up and up and up - but just what I needed! I had exactly the same view from the top as from Loughrigg (ie b*gger all!) though luckily the path down was obvious even to me. It was a nice easy descent but by the time I got to Troutbeck I was soaked. The guidebook advised me that the Post Office served hot drinks, and when I reached it there was an enticing sign on the side saying 'Hot tea and Coffee'- however it shut at 12:30 amd it was now 1:30... I had to make do with a cuppa from my flask.
It was an easy ramble back to Ambleside- though a bit muddy in places. It stopped raining but I was still wet, so called in a cafe for a fortifying hot chocolate with cream amd marshmallows. Everyone stared when I walked in- couldn't help noticing they were all in spotless waterproofs and wearing boots which had never seen mud- tourists!!
Typically enough, as I walked back to the car, the clouds on Loughrigg and Wansfell lifted and as I drove away the peaks cleared and I could see the Langdale Pikes! Still, I had a good day and covered another 13 miles.
So- although the distances haven't been great, I did a lot of ascent and descent over tricky terrain so very useful training I hope!
Labels: Ambleside, Grasmere, Lake District, Lakes