Monday, July 08, 2013
Picos de Europa Day 2- Tuesday 28th May
After consulting the weather, Juan concluded that the best course of action for today would be to walk the Cares Gorge as this does not involve any real climbing. The Cares Gorge is a spectacular gorge that was gouged out during the ice age and reaches almost a mile deep in parts. The Cares River, which runs through it, has been partially diverted for hydro-electric power and water now runs through a canal carved out of the rock towards the power station at Poncebos. An access path has been blasted out of the rock and runs through the gorge, high above the river, from Poncebos to Cain. It has fast become one of the most popular walks in the Picos and it's not difficult to see why.
Approximately 15 kilometres in length, around a metre wide with sheer drops to the river far below, it is not an easy walk for vertigo sufferers! Our intention was to walk from Poncebos to Cain and then retrace our steps, making for a fairly easy but long walk.
As we reached Poncebos it was obvious that the weather was going to be changeable- we would be walking in bright sunshine for a little while, then the clouds would roll in and it would pour for 15 minutes or so. The first part of the path involves a climb, and once at the crest the path can be clearly seen snaking round a huge cliff. This is when it becomes really spectacular and although the path is wider than it looks at a distance, you are aware of the huge drop off the edge. It was fairly quiet when we walked it bit Juan told us it's heaving in July and August- wouldn't really fancy edging my way past hordes of people!!
The Cares Gorge Path
We followed the path as it snaked round the cliff, past a fallen natural arch and through a series of rock arches. The views were spectacular!
Towards Cain there are a series of bridges to cross as the path swings from one side of the gorge to the other. There are also a few tunnels to negotiate- dark and damp, it felt like a real adventure as I stumbled along not knowing where to place my feet!
Tunnels Blasted Out Of The Rock
Finally we descended into Cain, and had welcome beers and plates of chips in the restaurant there. We bumped into an Exodus group doing the same walk- we were to meet them again during the week!
Walking back the same way certainly wasn't boring as completely different views opened up- at one point a rainbow appeared below us, making for a completely magical scene.
The Rainbow
Juan told us that although the path is fairly short, getting between Poncebos to Cain involves a long trip round the mountains, and too many people walk the path and decide to call for a taxi to take them back, not realising that it will set them back around 200 euros!
It felt quite good to walk there and back under our own steam. We toasted our achievement with a beer at Poncebos and hoped that the weather would continue to be kind to us.
As we reached Poncebos it was obvious that the weather was going to be changeable- we would be walking in bright sunshine for a little while, then the clouds would roll in and it would pour for 15 minutes or so. The first part of the path involves a climb, and once at the crest the path can be clearly seen snaking round a huge cliff. This is when it becomes really spectacular and although the path is wider than it looks at a distance, you are aware of the huge drop off the edge. It was fairly quiet when we walked it bit Juan told us it's heaving in July and August- wouldn't really fancy edging my way past hordes of people!!
We followed the path as it snaked round the cliff, past a fallen natural arch and through a series of rock arches. The views were spectacular!
Towards Cain there are a series of bridges to cross as the path swings from one side of the gorge to the other. There are also a few tunnels to negotiate- dark and damp, it felt like a real adventure as I stumbled along not knowing where to place my feet!
Finally we descended into Cain, and had welcome beers and plates of chips in the restaurant there. We bumped into an Exodus group doing the same walk- we were to meet them again during the week!
Walking back the same way certainly wasn't boring as completely different views opened up- at one point a rainbow appeared below us, making for a completely magical scene.
Juan told us that although the path is fairly short, getting between Poncebos to Cain involves a long trip round the mountains, and too many people walk the path and decide to call for a taxi to take them back, not realising that it will set them back around 200 euros!
It felt quite good to walk there and back under our own steam. We toasted our achievement with a beer at Poncebos and hoped that the weather would continue to be kind to us.
Labels: Cares Gorge, Picos de Europa
Tuesday, June 25, 2013
Picos de Europa Day 1- Monday 27th May
So after my sojourn in sunny Barcelona, I handled my case, which had started to fall apart, back to the airport and onto the short flight to Asturias airport, where I met my fellow treckers- 6 chaps and another lady- and our guide, Juan. We were to spend our first night in luxury at a really posh hotel but I was rather disappointed to see that the sun had completely disappeared and had been replaced with mist and drizzle... I hoped that it would improve!
The next morning I jumped out of bed, eagerly pulled the curtain back to reveal... mist. It had been raining the night before, which was a bit of a shock as I had been expecting to see a bit of sun! Our day's itinerary for today was to walk up from Covadonga Lakes to the Refugio Vegarredonda and then onto the Ordiales viewpoint, which Juan assured us is stunning- in clear weather... unfortunately for us it wasn't clear...
Stopping on the way to the lakes to see the impressive cathedral of Basilica of Santa María la Real of Covadonga with its impressive rock cut hermitage of Santa Maria, the tops of the mountains had disappeared into mist.
We drove upwards for miles along a windy, twisty road which I believe is used quite a lot in the Spanish Cycle Race. Cows roam free range, with large bells around their necks, and don't seem to have any road sense at all! Reaching the lakes, we turned off along a dirt track which led to a car park. Juan and his wife Sonya gave us our packed lunches and we set off up the path towards the refuge.
Traffic Jam!
Walking Towards The Cloud
Unfortunately we were soon walking into the cloud and could see very little. Juan produced a guide book and showed us a photo of the view we should have been able to see in front of us... not sure it helped any!
After a couple of hours walking we reached the refuge. Half of the group decided to go up a little more towards the snow line, but as there was no possibility of a view, the rest of us decided to stay put at the refuge, open up our mess tins, have lunch and cups of coffee.
Going down the same way, it was some time before we started to have any kind of view again, although I did snap these chaps;
Once back at the cars, we stopped at the hotel to collect our things before heading to Sotres, and the hotel which was to be our base for the rest of the week. This proved to be a charming cosy and friendly hotel owned by Sonya's family- Hotel Rural Casa Cipriano.
The next morning I jumped out of bed, eagerly pulled the curtain back to reveal... mist. It had been raining the night before, which was a bit of a shock as I had been expecting to see a bit of sun! Our day's itinerary for today was to walk up from Covadonga Lakes to the Refugio Vegarredonda and then onto the Ordiales viewpoint, which Juan assured us is stunning- in clear weather... unfortunately for us it wasn't clear...
Stopping on the way to the lakes to see the impressive cathedral of Basilica of Santa María la Real of Covadonga with its impressive rock cut hermitage of Santa Maria, the tops of the mountains had disappeared into mist.
Unfortunately we were soon walking into the cloud and could see very little. Juan produced a guide book and showed us a photo of the view we should have been able to see in front of us... not sure it helped any!
After a couple of hours walking we reached the refuge. Half of the group decided to go up a little more towards the snow line, but as there was no possibility of a view, the rest of us decided to stay put at the refuge, open up our mess tins, have lunch and cups of coffee.
Going down the same way, it was some time before we started to have any kind of view again, although I did snap these chaps;
Labels: Covadonga, Picos de Europa, Sotres
Thursday, June 20, 2013
I'm Ba-a-ack!!
Please excuse the protracted absence... as soon as I got home it was straight back to work and the hurly burly hecticness that is everyday life...
The holiday? It was great! Although I very nearly didn't get to Spain on 24th May... I boarded my BA flight at Heathrow for the 8:30am flight and we sat on the tarmac for a few minutes, before the Captain told us that the south runway was closed so we were going to have to use the north runway. Ten minutes later nothing had happened, and he then told us the north runway was now closed due to a plane returning to the airport due to technical issues so we were waiting for the south runway to be reopened.
Another passenger came up to the people sitting near me and said that apparently, according to Twitter, the returned plane had suffered an engine fire, and had to deploy the emergency chutes. It was only when I returned home I discovered that this had indeed been the case, and that Heathrow had cancelled over 100 short haul flights until 4pm. We were an hour late taking off, which in the grand scheme of things was nothing... I think if we hadn't all been on board and ready to leave we would have been there for hours.
Barcelona was beautiful, and it was lovely to spend time with my Dad and Step mum. But this being an endurance adventures blog I guess people are more interested to hear about the mountains!
The Picos de Europa literally means 'The Peaks of Europe' and are situated in the Asturias, Cantabria, Castile and Leon areas of Northern Spain. The mountain range is made up of three massifs- Central, Eastern and Western. These mountains are limestone and the landscape was formed by glaciation.
We stayed in Sotres, which is the highest village in the Picos and situated in the Cabrales region of Asturias. It was certainly a spectacular location- cream and white buildings nestled amongst mighty jagged peaks. Perfect walking country.
Unfortunately we didn't have perfect walking weather... when I first booked I just assumed oh yes... Spain at the end of May... hot, sunny, great views, clear skies... it wasn't until I looked online a few days before I was due to fly that I thought- hang on, it could actually be chilly!
And it was... it was remarkably like the Lake District during a wet spell- mists, obscured views, rain, rain and more rain... most disappointing! A couple of group members were caught out by this and had to by fleeces from the shop attached to the hotel. Our tour leader said that it was usually much warmer and much more settled by this time of year, but they had had a lot more snow than usual this year... seems as though the winter weather we had has affected all of Europe.
It did brighten up towards the end of the week and I think I did get some good shots. There were 8 of us on the tour, 6 chaps and 2 ladies, just a nice number for getting to know each other, and of course our guide Juan. I will post accounts of each day's walk, with photos, but for now please indulge me and let me share a few pics of Barcelona with you... well I did do a lot of walking whilst I was there...
The Cathedral
Las Ramblas
Oh yummy...
Casa Batllo
Inside The Sagrada Familia
Park Guell
Arts Museum Near Placa d'Espana
The holiday? It was great! Although I very nearly didn't get to Spain on 24th May... I boarded my BA flight at Heathrow for the 8:30am flight and we sat on the tarmac for a few minutes, before the Captain told us that the south runway was closed so we were going to have to use the north runway. Ten minutes later nothing had happened, and he then told us the north runway was now closed due to a plane returning to the airport due to technical issues so we were waiting for the south runway to be reopened.
Another passenger came up to the people sitting near me and said that apparently, according to Twitter, the returned plane had suffered an engine fire, and had to deploy the emergency chutes. It was only when I returned home I discovered that this had indeed been the case, and that Heathrow had cancelled over 100 short haul flights until 4pm. We were an hour late taking off, which in the grand scheme of things was nothing... I think if we hadn't all been on board and ready to leave we would have been there for hours.
Barcelona was beautiful, and it was lovely to spend time with my Dad and Step mum. But this being an endurance adventures blog I guess people are more interested to hear about the mountains!
The Picos de Europa literally means 'The Peaks of Europe' and are situated in the Asturias, Cantabria, Castile and Leon areas of Northern Spain. The mountain range is made up of three massifs- Central, Eastern and Western. These mountains are limestone and the landscape was formed by glaciation.
We stayed in Sotres, which is the highest village in the Picos and situated in the Cabrales region of Asturias. It was certainly a spectacular location- cream and white buildings nestled amongst mighty jagged peaks. Perfect walking country.
Unfortunately we didn't have perfect walking weather... when I first booked I just assumed oh yes... Spain at the end of May... hot, sunny, great views, clear skies... it wasn't until I looked online a few days before I was due to fly that I thought- hang on, it could actually be chilly!
And it was... it was remarkably like the Lake District during a wet spell- mists, obscured views, rain, rain and more rain... most disappointing! A couple of group members were caught out by this and had to by fleeces from the shop attached to the hotel. Our tour leader said that it was usually much warmer and much more settled by this time of year, but they had had a lot more snow than usual this year... seems as though the winter weather we had has affected all of Europe.
It did brighten up towards the end of the week and I think I did get some good shots. There were 8 of us on the tour, 6 chaps and 2 ladies, just a nice number for getting to know each other, and of course our guide Juan. I will post accounts of each day's walk, with photos, but for now please indulge me and let me share a few pics of Barcelona with you... well I did do a lot of walking whilst I was there...
Labels: Barcelona, Picos de Europa
Thursday, May 23, 2013
Belated Event Report- The Bassetlaw Bash
Sorry for the lack of updates for a while... I have had some family health issues to deal with as well as sorting things out for my holiday (a week's trekking in the Picos de Europa, short trip to Barcelona and a stay with my Dad and Stepmum). Actually the more eagle eyed amongst you might have noticed that I was originally going to the Pyrenees... that is correct... but as nobody else actually booked on the tour (I'm THAT popular, obviously) Explore kindly agreed to fly me from Barcelona to Orviedo to join the Picos de Europa trek. It's still mountains, it still looks spectacular and I will have some company!
Explore are also flying me to Alicante afterwards, although this means that I will miss my train ride which I was quite looking forward to... but well, we can't have everything...
So this time next week I will be walking in the mountains!!
But I digress... a few weeks ago I completed a new event for me- The Bassetlaw Bash. As it's fairly local I thought I may as well give it a go and so set off for Retford in North Notts and the start of the walk at the Idle Valley Nature Reserve. I checked in, told them I was walking the 26 mile route and got the cheery response 'actually it's 27 miles!' Although it was only the second running of the event, it looked well attended, and I spoke with the chap I met at the Three Shires- the one who had finished and then came back to walk his friends in. He was hoping to jog most of it so I knew I wouldn't see him again!
Luckily we had nice weather all day, and set off into the sunshine towards the canal. The route followed a delightful tow path along the canal, past locks and pretty houses, then the town of Retford, before our first checkpoint and cake and biscuits at the Gate Inn at Clarborough.
Shortly after this we left the canal and headed up tracks and across fields to the first climb of the day, and one of the few ascents on the walk. I was relieved to see that the lack of rain over the past week had dried out the fields and tracks nicely and kept my feet dry all day!
There were some lovely views along this stretch, across the rolling agricultural landscape with a patchwork or fields and small farms. Another climb along a country road brought us to the second checkpoint at Wheatly Wood Farm, where there were coffee and cheese and pickle cobs on offer- the temptation to stay a while could not be resisted... especially as there were custard creams as well!
Clayworth Village
After this the route traversed fields and wide open spaces, as it rose, fell, rose and fell again to Clayworth Village and the third checkpoint at the canal bridge, where there was some rather divine home made shortcake on offer. I did have to have two pieces just to make sure the quality was consistent.
After another brief flirtation with the canal it was back through fields- and being scared out of my wits by a bird banger- we entered part of the Idle Valley Nature Reserve and followed a lovely path along the edge of a large lake.
After this we left the reserve and the route headed along an undulating track through fields, before switchbacking by an odd fence which had hundreds of plastic carrier bags tied to it for no reason I could fathom. More field walking brought us to a gravel track, leading to more lakes, and then a lovely path through woodland to the final checkpoint at Danes Hill Lakes car park. I lowered myself to the ground for a brief sit down, but daren't linger too long as it was quite likely I wouldn't be able to get up again...
Danes Hill Lakes
The final stretch was really pretty- winding between lakes, before walking alongside a railway track. A long gradual ascent brought us to the pretty village of Sutton, and shortly afterwards we entered the Nature Reserve for the final time. The finish is accessed by walking under a couple of metal sculptures and through a long willow tunnel!
Metal Sculpture And The Willow Tunnel
My time was which I am pleased with- it was quite an easy event, being quite flat and on good paths. Pie and peas were served in the car park, and I got chatting to a fascinating chap who loves creating his own considerable challenges. He said that he is particularly fond of desert walking, and had done the MdS three times. The latest challenge he is working towards in a couple of years time is to complete 75 marathons over 75 days... for his 75th birthday! Amazing. Well, up until that point I had been feeling fairly fit, but this kind of puts me to shame!! I would love to know how he gets on...
Explore are also flying me to Alicante afterwards, although this means that I will miss my train ride which I was quite looking forward to... but well, we can't have everything...
So this time next week I will be walking in the mountains!!
But I digress... a few weeks ago I completed a new event for me- The Bassetlaw Bash. As it's fairly local I thought I may as well give it a go and so set off for Retford in North Notts and the start of the walk at the Idle Valley Nature Reserve. I checked in, told them I was walking the 26 mile route and got the cheery response 'actually it's 27 miles!' Although it was only the second running of the event, it looked well attended, and I spoke with the chap I met at the Three Shires- the one who had finished and then came back to walk his friends in. He was hoping to jog most of it so I knew I wouldn't see him again!
Luckily we had nice weather all day, and set off into the sunshine towards the canal. The route followed a delightful tow path along the canal, past locks and pretty houses, then the town of Retford, before our first checkpoint and cake and biscuits at the Gate Inn at Clarborough.
Shortly after this we left the canal and headed up tracks and across fields to the first climb of the day, and one of the few ascents on the walk. I was relieved to see that the lack of rain over the past week had dried out the fields and tracks nicely and kept my feet dry all day!
There were some lovely views along this stretch, across the rolling agricultural landscape with a patchwork or fields and small farms. Another climb along a country road brought us to the second checkpoint at Wheatly Wood Farm, where there were coffee and cheese and pickle cobs on offer- the temptation to stay a while could not be resisted... especially as there were custard creams as well!
After this the route traversed fields and wide open spaces, as it rose, fell, rose and fell again to Clayworth Village and the third checkpoint at the canal bridge, where there was some rather divine home made shortcake on offer. I did have to have two pieces just to make sure the quality was consistent.
After another brief flirtation with the canal it was back through fields- and being scared out of my wits by a bird banger- we entered part of the Idle Valley Nature Reserve and followed a lovely path along the edge of a large lake.
After this we left the reserve and the route headed along an undulating track through fields, before switchbacking by an odd fence which had hundreds of plastic carrier bags tied to it for no reason I could fathom. More field walking brought us to a gravel track, leading to more lakes, and then a lovely path through woodland to the final checkpoint at Danes Hill Lakes car park. I lowered myself to the ground for a brief sit down, but daren't linger too long as it was quite likely I wouldn't be able to get up again...
My time was which I am pleased with- it was quite an easy event, being quite flat and on good paths. Pie and peas were served in the car park, and I got chatting to a fascinating chap who loves creating his own considerable challenges. He said that he is particularly fond of desert walking, and had done the MdS three times. The latest challenge he is working towards in a couple of years time is to complete 75 marathons over 75 days... for his 75th birthday! Amazing. Well, up until that point I had been feeling fairly fit, but this kind of puts me to shame!! I would love to know how he gets on...
Labels: Barcelona, Bassetlaw Bash, Picos de Europa, Spain
