Sunday, July 29, 2012
Peddars Way- Day One
Day One- Knettishall Heath to Little Cressingham- 14.5 miles
It was an adventure in itself just getting to the start of the Peddars Way, as Knettishall Heath is off the beaten track and not generally served by public transport. I caught the Coast Hopper bus from Wells to Kings Lynn, the train from Kings Lynn to Thetford, changing at Ely, and then used the excellent Suffolk Links Brecks Bus to the start. This is an amazing service- bookable in advance, a minibus will collect you from the station and deposit you at Knettishall Heath, for the princely sum of £1.80.
The lady who collected me advised that it is a community service and that she collects people to take them to Day Centres etc, but like all public services it is under threat from Government cuts. It would be a great shame if it were lost.
The start of the Peddars Way is very unassuming- in the middle of forest, a solitary finger post next to a car park marks the way.
I walked across the car park to look at the end of the Icknield Way, which ends at the start of the Peddars Way and chatted to two ladies who were planning on cycling the route and overnighting at Ringstead some 40 miles away.
The first part of the Peddars Way is through forest- lots and lots of forest! I set off down a somewhat muddy track which opened out into heathland known as The Brecks. It also starts in Suffolk although only for the first few hundred yards until the Little Ouse river is crossed.
The Brecks
This path was quite pleasant, winding through woodland, Breckland and past rivers. It was cloudy but stayed dry all day... my pack didn't feel too heavy at all and I felt quite positive.
The Path Follows The Raised 'Agger' Of The Roman Road
The sun even made a rare appearance as I reached a car park at Roundall Heath and succumbed to a coffee from the burger van which appeared to be doing a roaring trade from passing truckers. I wasn't looking forwards to the next obstacle- a 100 metres dash over the A11 dual carriageway- but a few minutes later I was safely over and walking towards the village of Stonebridge. Or East Wretham, depending on which side of the road you are standing on apparently; I walked on both sides to maintain some impartiality.
There isn't a pub in Little Cressingham so I stopped for egg and chips at the Dog and Partridge;
I didn't enjoy the path beyond the village. It followed a wide track through rather bleak forest, with army training ground to the left, with signs warning not to stray into this area. I did find the first of the 'Songlines' sculptures- these are a number of carved stone sculptures by Tom Perkins, featuring words from a book in an effort to link the present day Peddars Way with the past. The words are becoming less legible, but I could make them out- 'The footprints of our ancestors familiar as our own faces remote as fossils written on clay and washed away over and over, over and over'.
The expanse of Thompson Water lies just off route, but I managed to miss it. Past this the path narrowed to a much more pleasant track which led me to the second Songlines sculpture, which read 'Surveyors have made their lives on the land trapping Albion in a net of roads a taut web on the edge of empire'.
Finally the track left the woods, leading past a wide common and following farm tracks towards Little Cressingham. My socks, which I had bought new but were thicker than my usual ones, were rubbing my instep a little, but I felt otherwise okay. The road into the village is quite busy, but the Peddars Way followed tracks behind the hedgerow or along the verge. The sun was a welcome companion as I entered the village.
Following The Hedgerow
I was quite early, so spotted the B and B and continued down the road to look at the church. It is quite spectacular- part of the church tower and chancel have collapsed, but the rest of the church is still very much in use.
Little Cressingham Church
A little further down the road is a combined wind and water mill, which is in the process of being restored;
There is only one Bed and Breakfast on the route here- Sycamore House, which is right on the route. Although I had paid for a single I was upgraded to a twin, and had a lovely bubble bath. I had already eaten and had some snacks with me, although the owner offered to run me to Great Cressingham and the pub. As I surveyed my feet I noticed that I had a small blister from my socks, but otherwise felt in good shape and ready for tomorrow!
It was an adventure in itself just getting to the start of the Peddars Way, as Knettishall Heath is off the beaten track and not generally served by public transport. I caught the Coast Hopper bus from Wells to Kings Lynn, the train from Kings Lynn to Thetford, changing at Ely, and then used the excellent Suffolk Links Brecks Bus to the start. This is an amazing service- bookable in advance, a minibus will collect you from the station and deposit you at Knettishall Heath, for the princely sum of £1.80.
The lady who collected me advised that it is a community service and that she collects people to take them to Day Centres etc, but like all public services it is under threat from Government cuts. It would be a great shame if it were lost.
The start of the Peddars Way is very unassuming- in the middle of forest, a solitary finger post next to a car park marks the way.
The first part of the Peddars Way is through forest- lots and lots of forest! I set off down a somewhat muddy track which opened out into heathland known as The Brecks. It also starts in Suffolk although only for the first few hundred yards until the Little Ouse river is crossed.
This path was quite pleasant, winding through woodland, Breckland and past rivers. It was cloudy but stayed dry all day... my pack didn't feel too heavy at all and I felt quite positive.
The sun even made a rare appearance as I reached a car park at Roundall Heath and succumbed to a coffee from the burger van which appeared to be doing a roaring trade from passing truckers. I wasn't looking forwards to the next obstacle- a 100 metres dash over the A11 dual carriageway- but a few minutes later I was safely over and walking towards the village of Stonebridge. Or East Wretham, depending on which side of the road you are standing on apparently; I walked on both sides to maintain some impartiality.
There isn't a pub in Little Cressingham so I stopped for egg and chips at the Dog and Partridge;
I was quite early, so spotted the B and B and continued down the road to look at the church. It is quite spectacular- part of the church tower and chancel have collapsed, but the rest of the church is still very much in use.
A little further down the road is a combined wind and water mill, which is in the process of being restored;
There is only one Bed and Breakfast on the route here- Sycamore House, which is right on the route. Although I had paid for a single I was upgraded to a twin, and had a lovely bubble bath. I had already eaten and had some snacks with me, although the owner offered to run me to Great Cressingham and the pub. As I surveyed my feet I noticed that I had a small blister from my socks, but otherwise felt in good shape and ready for tomorrow!
Labels: Little Cressingham, Peddars Way, Stonebridge
