Sunday, July 22, 2007
Day Ten; Ascent Of Jebel Toubkal!
Today was the big one! We were all stumbling about at 5am for a 6am start; Heidi gamely decided to make the ascent, much to our joy. Sandra had originally intended not to make the ascent, but she was fit and walking well, so we talked her into it!
It was another sunny day, but fairly chilly as our valley was in deep shadow. We reached our path and began to climb… the path alternated between rough scree, high boulders and pretty much everything in between. As we ascended, our group strung out and we had regular water stops for folk to catch up. There were quite a few other parties climbing Jebel Toukbal, including a British group with Exodus, who we kept leapfrogging.
We had to walk up through a large patch of snow at one point, which was quite slippy. Finally the path zig zagged up to the saddle of Tizi Toubkal, and the wind hit us- it was really chilly. We had a most amazing view though… jagged and flat topped peaks poked up through the cloud. We climbed more steeply, and could see the summit with its odd iron triangle.
View From Tizi Toubkal
The High Atlas- From Jebel Toubkal Summit
We had bread, cheese and oranges at the summit, which is a brick, small square shaped enclosure topped with a black, metal pyramid shaped structure. There were a couple of other groups there, so when they moved, we had a group photo! It was actually a lot less windy and warmer on the summit than it had been on the pass below. It was great to be stood at the highest point of North Africa, at 4167 metres.
Me At The Summit!
Of course, what goes up must come down, and the descent was as horrible as I had feared! I stumbled and picked my way down, and my Achilles started to protest. We descended by a slightly different route, and as we walked through a small patch of snow, I grabbed a handful of snowy ice and stuffed it down my left sock!
Luckily, we kept stopping, and I ended up coming down just behind Sandra- it was such a relief to get back down and tuck into lunch! After lunch, I braved the trip to the showers in the new refuge, which involved a walk across rocky ground and a river crossing, but it was worth it to be clean!
It was another sunny day, but fairly chilly as our valley was in deep shadow. We reached our path and began to climb… the path alternated between rough scree, high boulders and pretty much everything in between. As we ascended, our group strung out and we had regular water stops for folk to catch up. There were quite a few other parties climbing Jebel Toukbal, including a British group with Exodus, who we kept leapfrogging.
We had to walk up through a large patch of snow at one point, which was quite slippy. Finally the path zig zagged up to the saddle of Tizi Toubkal, and the wind hit us- it was really chilly. We had a most amazing view though… jagged and flat topped peaks poked up through the cloud. We climbed more steeply, and could see the summit with its odd iron triangle.
View From Tizi ToubkalI found myself actually overtaking people as we had the last push to the summit. Then we were there; we all made it! Including Sandra and Heidi, who were understandably thrilled. And what a view- ridge upon ridge of high, rocky mountains. We were surrounded by the High Atlas, and Ali pointed out the mountain ranges of the Anti Atlas and the Jebel Sahro in the distance. I could just about make out the direction in which the Sahara lay.
The High Atlas- From Jebel Toubkal SummitWe had bread, cheese and oranges at the summit, which is a brick, small square shaped enclosure topped with a black, metal pyramid shaped structure. There were a couple of other groups there, so when they moved, we had a group photo! It was actually a lot less windy and warmer on the summit than it had been on the pass below. It was great to be stood at the highest point of North Africa, at 4167 metres.
Me At The Summit!Of course, what goes up must come down, and the descent was as horrible as I had feared! I stumbled and picked my way down, and my Achilles started to protest. We descended by a slightly different route, and as we walked through a small patch of snow, I grabbed a handful of snowy ice and stuffed it down my left sock!
Luckily, we kept stopping, and I ended up coming down just behind Sandra- it was such a relief to get back down and tuck into lunch! After lunch, I braved the trip to the showers in the new refuge, which involved a walk across rocky ground and a river crossing, but it was worth it to be clean!
We spent the remainder of the day chilling, and watching walking groups and mules walking up and down the track to Sidi Charamouch and playing cards, with the glow of satisfaction achievement brings! We were also completely knackered, so had an early night. I slept like a log!
Labels: Jebel Toukbal, Morocco, trekking
Day Nine; Aremd To Toubkal refuge
It’s mum’s birthday today (yes- June is always a very expensive time for me!!) so I manage to send her a text.
It was really misty last night, cold and damp. I could feel it when I went up to the terrace to use the toilet. Everybody was a bit concerned that this meant the weather had turned, which could affect our Toukbal attempt. When I woke, Sandra said that she had lain awake, listening to the pouring rain. I pulled back the shutters, to reveal another gloriously sunny day- she had been listening to the stream!
We set off up the valley, and pick up a fairly gentle mule track, much of it in shade. One of our party, Heidi, wasn’t well; she had severe stomach cramps and sickness. She alternated between striding off ahead whilst she felt better, and dropping back to walk with her husband and Assiz when the attacks came again. It must have been awful for her.
After a couple of hours of following the valley and gently climbing, we reached the shrine of Sidi Charamouch. It’s the sight of a shrine to a holy man, and locals will make pilgrimages there regularly. It’s a funny place, and very popular- we kept having to leap off the path to allow passing mules. The shrine itself is marked by a great white, hollow boulder, inside which prayer is held. There is a ‘Muslims only’ sign- us Infidels aren’t allowed in! The rest of Sidi Charamouch consists of a few ramshackle stalls selling drinks, clothes and the usual tourist goods. One stall had an ingenious system of piping cold water from the stream running through the hamlet to keep the bottles of drinks cool.
Sidi Charamouch
Mountain Scenery
Our Loo With a View!
Evening Light On Oukaimeden
It was really misty last night, cold and damp. I could feel it when I went up to the terrace to use the toilet. Everybody was a bit concerned that this meant the weather had turned, which could affect our Toukbal attempt. When I woke, Sandra said that she had lain awake, listening to the pouring rain. I pulled back the shutters, to reveal another gloriously sunny day- she had been listening to the stream!
We set off up the valley, and pick up a fairly gentle mule track, much of it in shade. One of our party, Heidi, wasn’t well; she had severe stomach cramps and sickness. She alternated between striding off ahead whilst she felt better, and dropping back to walk with her husband and Assiz when the attacks came again. It must have been awful for her.
After a couple of hours of following the valley and gently climbing, we reached the shrine of Sidi Charamouch. It’s the sight of a shrine to a holy man, and locals will make pilgrimages there regularly. It’s a funny place, and very popular- we kept having to leap off the path to allow passing mules. The shrine itself is marked by a great white, hollow boulder, inside which prayer is held. There is a ‘Muslims only’ sign- us Infidels aren’t allowed in! The rest of Sidi Charamouch consists of a few ramshackle stalls selling drinks, clothes and the usual tourist goods. One stall had an ingenious system of piping cold water from the stream running through the hamlet to keep the bottles of drinks cool.
Sidi CharamouchWe sat at a café, and had drinks- mine was a coffee made with powdered milk but still good. Then it was onwards and upwards; the path climbed up and round the mountainside, and the scenery became more rocky and wild, with splashes of gorse. We could see the refuge- there is an old, established one and a new one being built. However, they are apparently very crowded, and we stayed at a wild camp just below it.
Mountain SceneryWe sat drinking mint tea in the mess tent whilst our muleteers put up the tents. I ended up with one to myself- luxury! Our toilet consists of a small white toilet tent over a dug out pit, with flat stones around it for balance!
Our Loo With a View!We are surrounded by rocky peaks, soaring into the most intense blue sky, far brighter than any achieved in England in the summer (and certainly this summer!) After dinner, we had a short walk up the valley, where we could see the evening sun turning the distant bulk of Oukaimeden pinky- purple. Everybody’s thoughts turn to tomorrow- the ascent day!
Evening Light On OukaimedenLabels: Aremd, High Atlas, Jebel Toukbal, Morocco, trekking
Day Eight; Tizi Oussem to Aremd
We had a lie in today, and set off at 8am! It was very misty at first, but cleared to leave the usual sunshine. We left the village and climbed towards Tizi Mzik, passing a graveyard on the way. We wouldn’t have realised what it was if Ali hadn’t pointed it out, it was just an enclosed, rough piece of ground with various large stones acting as headstones here and there.
As we climbed, we entered the Toukbal National Park and saw barbed wire fencing for the first time. We reached the pass after a long gradual climb, and there was a stunning view into the valley beyond. We could see the passes we had crossed on the first two days walking. There were two lads selling fizzy drinks at the top, so I had a welcome bottle of Fanta.
View From The Pass
We had an ok descent (ok in that I could more or less keep up!) to reach the road to Aremd. We passed a group of Muslim ladies in brightly coloured attire; Ali said that they had been on a pilgrimage to the shrine on the path to Toukbal.
Ladies on a Pilgrimage
Imlil is a real frontier town; the main transport is the mule, there are mule hiring stations and kids riding mules and donkeys up and down the street. We had a coffee and cake at a café, and fed bits to a pregnant cat, who ate the wrapper too. Just then, we heard screaming; an open topped truck had pulled up nearby, and on top were a load of goats and sheep trussed up by their feet, screaming. As we watched, lads started to haul them off the truck and piling them on the floor outside the butchers. We all wished we hadn’t witnessed that!
We are all rather anxious as we settle for the night, as tomorrow we start trekking up to Toubkal base camp…
As we climbed, we entered the Toukbal National Park and saw barbed wire fencing for the first time. We reached the pass after a long gradual climb, and there was a stunning view into the valley beyond. We could see the passes we had crossed on the first two days walking. There were two lads selling fizzy drinks at the top, so I had a welcome bottle of Fanta.
View From The PassWe had an ok descent (ok in that I could more or less keep up!) to reach the road to Aremd. We passed a group of Muslim ladies in brightly coloured attire; Ali said that they had been on a pilgrimage to the shrine on the path to Toukbal.
Ladies on a PilgrimageWe reach our gite at Aremd, and as we had the afternoon free, a group of us walked to Imlil, where there were cafes and shops. The shop keepers were very pushy to say the least, you could see their eyes light up when they saw us “Ahh, you Eeenglish? Lovely Jubbly?” I did buy some silver bracelets, but suspect I paid over the odds.
Imlil is a real frontier town; the main transport is the mule, there are mule hiring stations and kids riding mules and donkeys up and down the street. We had a coffee and cake at a café, and fed bits to a pregnant cat, who ate the wrapper too. Just then, we heard screaming; an open topped truck had pulled up nearby, and on top were a load of goats and sheep trussed up by their feet, screaming. As we watched, lads started to haul them off the truck and piling them on the floor outside the butchers. We all wished we hadn’t witnessed that!
Mule in Imlil
Back at the Gite we had Berber coffee, made with powdered milk and spices, and pancakes. There had been a Berber wedding in the village that day, and we could see all the guests on one of the roofs at the top of the village.
We are all rather anxious as we settle for the night, as tomorrow we start trekking up to Toubkal base camp…
Labels: Aremd, High Atlas, Morocco, Tizi Oussem, trekking
Saturday, July 21, 2007
Day Seven; Aguersioual To Tizi-Oussem
It’s Father’s Day and my Dad’s birthday, so I manage to manoeuvre myself on the terrace until I get a sufficient signal to send him a text. God knows what the locals think of us with our mobile phones and vibram soled walking boots!
The night skies here are absolutely amazing… the clouds clear when it gets dark, and the vista is stunning. The sky is absolutely full of stars. Far more than you could ever imagine; we see nothing like this in the light polluted UK, not even in the country. Ali told us it’s even more stunning in the desert- guess I’m gonna find out in 2009...
Today was another 7:30am start, and I was concerned my bag wasn’t going to make it as it kept being left on it’s own. We descended through the village and over the river, which was another rather precarious crossing for those of us who are rather more vertically challenged, then climbed using a road, which was a lot gentler than some of the tracks we had used. We were climbing up through the valley, passing a village strung out on the slopes opposite, with the usual minaret tower and crop terraces. There were also lots of cherry trees with juicy looking cherries.
Heading Up To The Pass
Our mules passed us, and I was so relieved to see my bag! The road finally ended in a rough track, which took us to the pass of Tizi Oudite. A rather rough descent took us to our lunch stop on the hill side. We ate and watched shepherds herding large numbers of small black and white goats on the barren red hillsides before passing the time playing cards. Pudding was a nice surprise- Omar had bought lots of cherries from the village we passed earlier!
The night skies here are absolutely amazing… the clouds clear when it gets dark, and the vista is stunning. The sky is absolutely full of stars. Far more than you could ever imagine; we see nothing like this in the light polluted UK, not even in the country. Ali told us it’s even more stunning in the desert- guess I’m gonna find out in 2009...
Today was another 7:30am start, and I was concerned my bag wasn’t going to make it as it kept being left on it’s own. We descended through the village and over the river, which was another rather precarious crossing for those of us who are rather more vertically challenged, then climbed using a road, which was a lot gentler than some of the tracks we had used. We were climbing up through the valley, passing a village strung out on the slopes opposite, with the usual minaret tower and crop terraces. There were also lots of cherry trees with juicy looking cherries.
Heading Up To The Pass
Our mules passed us, and I was so relieved to see my bag! The road finally ended in a rough track, which took us to the pass of Tizi Oudite. A rather rough descent took us to our lunch stop on the hill side. We ate and watched shepherds herding large numbers of small black and white goats on the barren red hillsides before passing the time playing cards. Pudding was a nice surprise- Omar had bought lots of cherries from the village we passed earlier!
Shepherd with his Sheep and Goats
After lunch, we descended further to a village just above the river. It had become quite cloudy, and as we stopped to hear Ali explain something, a dog appeared and watched us from the rocky outcrop nearby.
We followed a rough ‘road’ to our village, Tizi-Oussem. All the villages seem to be built on hills, and this one was no exception. In fact, it felt almost medieval, with small archways and little stone bridges between houses. Three of us ladies went for a saunter, and were accosted by two teenage girls, who followed us, grabbing at our jewellery saying “Donnez-moi!” At one point, they blocked our path and we had to squeeze past. We didn’t exactly feel threatened, but it wasn’t comfortable either!
Brightly Coloured Woven Rugs Hung out to Dry
After tea and a shower which lost more water out of the hose than the shower head, our muleteers treated us to a traditional berber songfest, using plastic bottles and metal trays for accompaniment. They wanted us to sing in return, luckily one guy knows all the words to ‘Ilkley Moor Baht’at’ so he sang it while we joined in the chorus!
Tomorrow is a half day, when we complete our circuit and reach Aremd again…
We followed a rough ‘road’ to our village, Tizi-Oussem. All the villages seem to be built on hills, and this one was no exception. In fact, it felt almost medieval, with small archways and little stone bridges between houses. Three of us ladies went for a saunter, and were accosted by two teenage girls, who followed us, grabbing at our jewellery saying “Donnez-moi!” At one point, they blocked our path and we had to squeeze past. We didn’t exactly feel threatened, but it wasn’t comfortable either!
Brightly Coloured Woven Rugs Hung out to DryAfter tea and a shower which lost more water out of the hose than the shower head, our muleteers treated us to a traditional berber songfest, using plastic bottles and metal trays for accompaniment. They wanted us to sing in return, luckily one guy knows all the words to ‘Ilkley Moor Baht’at’ so he sang it while we joined in the chorus!
Tomorrow is a half day, when we complete our circuit and reach Aremd again…
Labels: Aguersioual, Morocco, Tizi Oussem, trekking
Wednesday, July 18, 2007
Grrr Problems!
I am trying to update my Morocco trek, but am having real problems uploading photos... 4 times out of 5, they won't upload, and I am getting an error message. I have just spent nearly an hour trying and have managed to upload two... god knows how I'm going to finish writing up my holiday! I freely admit I'm not the most patient person in the world an am having to control my natural urge to break something!
I have been really busy this week downloading music for a mate, amongst other things- plus, it's amazing how much time exercising can take, although I've not done an awful lot this week; didn't go to the gym Sunday, but I did run 3 1/2 miles Monday as instructed by my physio! The good news is, there was absolutely nothing from Mr Achilles- no sensation, no soreness, no 'creaking'- nothing!! I'm really hoping I've cracked it. I've ordered a little book on Achilles Tendonitis, and there are some great exercises in it for strengthening the Achilles, vital I think for when I increase mileage!
I have used my little cross trainer and stepper quite a lot the last two nights, well, I've built up a sweat anyway! Tomorrow I will go back to the gym, Friday I am going to see my mate but intend to run before I go.
Saturday I was thinking about a long walk, as the Dovedale Dipper isn't very far away! This might be the first year it's not hot and sunny for it...
In the meantime, I will persevere with the travel writing but there may be no photos!
I have been really busy this week downloading music for a mate, amongst other things- plus, it's amazing how much time exercising can take, although I've not done an awful lot this week; didn't go to the gym Sunday, but I did run 3 1/2 miles Monday as instructed by my physio! The good news is, there was absolutely nothing from Mr Achilles- no sensation, no soreness, no 'creaking'- nothing!! I'm really hoping I've cracked it. I've ordered a little book on Achilles Tendonitis, and there are some great exercises in it for strengthening the Achilles, vital I think for when I increase mileage!
I have used my little cross trainer and stepper quite a lot the last two nights, well, I've built up a sweat anyway! Tomorrow I will go back to the gym, Friday I am going to see my mate but intend to run before I go.
Saturday I was thinking about a long walk, as the Dovedale Dipper isn't very far away! This might be the first year it's not hot and sunny for it...
In the meantime, I will persevere with the travel writing but there may be no photos!
Labels: achilles tendonitis, problems, trekking
Wednesday, July 11, 2007
Day Six; Oukaimeden To Aguersioual
It’s yet another hot and sunny day, and I had managed to burn my arms, wrists and the backs of my shoulders, so slathered on the sun cream all day. After another lovely 7:30am start, we said goodbye to Mrs Happy (I swear it’s the first time I saw a smile on her face!) and head back up to Tizi Oukaimeden and the pass we reached before climbing Jebel Oukaimeden yesterday.
We descended for ages on a long, red, gritty undulating path with the usual fantastic views. We wound through stunted juniper trees and crossed a barley ‘meadow’ resplendent with poppies and pretty purple flowers. It was steep going at first- I lagged behind- but became easier.
Views Descending Tizi Oukaimeden
Prickly Pear Cactus Flower
We reached the village of Aguersioual, or cactus ville as I dubbed it- there were bushes and bushes of prickly pear cactus everywhere we looked. Me and two others went for a wander and found that the main road to Marrakech ran opposite the river. It was a bit of a culture shock after so many days on rough tracks, and it was a novelty seeing traffic which didn’t bray!
Our gite has a terrace looking out over the village with a disconcerting view of a rubbish dump below complete with dead cat. The loos are the usual squat-and-bucket affair but the shower is adequate. Our route tomorrow takes us over the road and to the other side of the valley.
View of Jebel Toukbal From The Terrace
We descended for ages on a long, red, gritty undulating path with the usual fantastic views. We wound through stunted juniper trees and crossed a barley ‘meadow’ resplendent with poppies and pretty purple flowers. It was steep going at first- I lagged behind- but became easier.
Views Descending Tizi OukaimedenWe crossed another small pass and had dates and candied nuts, then another undulating descent brought us to the village of Amskere. We walked down through the village accompanied by the usual children, goats and women laden with bunches of long grasses. Down by the river, our cook, Omar, and the muleteers had prepared lunch and taken the packs off the mules so they could rest. We had loads of free time, so I got my book out of my bag and lounged on the cushions by the river whilst the others dozed.
After lunch, it was quite difficult to get going again, and we had another long ascent to Tizi Aguersioual. This was after crossing the river, which was tricky, I needed a hand as I am cursed with short legs and little sense of balance! We could see and hear people on the slopes opposite us, Ali said that they were planting trees. We reached the pass to find one of our muleteers waiting for us. He walked downhill with us for a while, chatting to Assiz, before taking off at a run down a wild and rocky path following the stream; we could hear him making bird calls as he descended!
Prickly Pear Cactus FlowerWe reached the village of Aguersioual, or cactus ville as I dubbed it- there were bushes and bushes of prickly pear cactus everywhere we looked. Me and two others went for a wander and found that the main road to Marrakech ran opposite the river. It was a bit of a culture shock after so many days on rough tracks, and it was a novelty seeing traffic which didn’t bray!
Our gite has a terrace looking out over the village with a disconcerting view of a rubbish dump below complete with dead cat. The loos are the usual squat-and-bucket affair but the shower is adequate. Our route tomorrow takes us over the road and to the other side of the valley.
View of Jebel Toukbal From The TerraceLabels: Aguersioual, Jebel Toukbal, trekking
Day Five; Oukaimeden
Jebel Oukaimeden
Me at the summit!
Descending from Jebel Oukaimeden
Sunset from Ridge
Day five was an official rest day... with an optional walk! Just a gentle stroll up to the summit of Jebel Oukaimeden, at 3262 metres! We had the luxury of a lie in (8am start) and all but one of us decided to undertake the climb (he had very sore feet so decided to rest them).
There is a ski lift up to the summit, which only runs in winter or a lot of us would probably have been tempted to take this option!
After an initial gentle climb to the pass, the path branched left straight up the side of the mountain- it was a very steep climb, and became steeper as we went higher. The were quite a lot of large rocks and loose scree to negotiate, but finally the path levelled out slightly and we reached an old, abandoned ski lift building. There was a breathtaking view, from the ridges of the High Atlas to the plains leading towards the horizon and Marrakesh.
The path continued to zig zag to the summit, still fairly steep but easier walking, being more gravelly and less loose and rocky. I found myself towards the front and felt it easy to climb. There is a ski lift on the summit, with associated machinery which did spoil the view somewhat. Just below the summit is a cafe with a terrace, which was closed (shame, could have done with a cuppa!) We could see across to the dome of Jebel Toukbal, and wandered to a secondary summit for a view down into the valley, where we could see the route we had taken on our first walking day. The pass we crossed seemed very small in comparison! Ali told us that our wild camp on Toukbal was roughly the same hight we were now at.
The descent, although mercifully a different route to our ascent, was very steep and loose- I ended up at the back, picking my way down. We did see a tiny greeny red scorpion scuttling for cover under a rock. The descent seemed endless, and I was so releived to reach the road back into the village.
We had our usual salad lunch, and nice hot shower, and chilled in the sun outside the refuge. We were waiting for Mrs Happy to make an appearance, and when she did, we pounced on her and asked for coffees and cokes. Honestly, she made such a song and dance, you'd have thought I'd asked her to climb jebel Oukaimeden, naked!
We had another optional walk up to the oddy shaped, serrated ridge behind the village to watch the sunset. We sat chatting while the surrounding rocks and hills turned a rich red as the sun slowly sank behind a bank of cloud, it was strangely atmospheric.
We had chips and fried aubergine for tea- a real luxury and voted best meal of the week!
Labels: Morocco, Oukaimeden, trekking
Wednesday, July 04, 2007
Day Four; Iabessene To Oukaimeden
We set off on yet another glorious day- it was getting to be a bit boring!! We ascended to Tizi Mzlee, up a strangely red coloured ridge. We found ourselves walking through red dust, almost like gritty sand... good practise for the MdS maybe...
I was worrying about the descents, but it was actually quite gentle. We could see villages farther up the valley, clinging to the hillsides, then we passed over a smaller ridge towards the head of a valley.
Looking Back On Our Route
We descended through some small juniper trees, bypassing the village of Agounss, which Ali informed us meant 'head of the valley'. There was the usual tall minaret tower, and as we drank water we heard the call to prayer echoeing across the valley.
There were a couple of small boys herding little black and white goats, with their dog. Funnily enough, we didn't see many dogs throughout the villages.
After a break, we had another long, slow, zigzagging climb up to the pass of Tizi n' Ouatter. It was quite a climb, but more gentle than I expected. The retrospective views were amazing, so I kept stopping to take photos and catching up again! We had several rest stops, and spend a few minutes trying to photograph a little black lizard on a rock.
We had a surprise at the top of the pass. We could see the village of Oukaimeden far in the valley below- out night's stop- but it was suddenly very cloudy. One side of the pass- the way we'd come- reamined perfectly clear and sunny. But the other side- where we were going- was quite cloudy. The cloud crept along the ridge, but could not seem to pass over to the other side. Weird!
Ascending Tizi n' Ouatter
Clouds On The Other Side Of The Pass
I was worrying about the descents, but it was actually quite gentle. We could see villages farther up the valley, clinging to the hillsides, then we passed over a smaller ridge towards the head of a valley.
Looking Back On Our RouteWe descended through some small juniper trees, bypassing the village of Agounss, which Ali informed us meant 'head of the valley'. There was the usual tall minaret tower, and as we drank water we heard the call to prayer echoeing across the valley.
There were a couple of small boys herding little black and white goats, with their dog. Funnily enough, we didn't see many dogs throughout the villages.
After a break, we had another long, slow, zigzagging climb up to the pass of Tizi n' Ouatter. It was quite a climb, but more gentle than I expected. The retrospective views were amazing, so I kept stopping to take photos and catching up again! We had several rest stops, and spend a few minutes trying to photograph a little black lizard on a rock.
We had a surprise at the top of the pass. We could see the village of Oukaimeden far in the valley below- out night's stop- but it was suddenly very cloudy. One side of the pass- the way we'd come- reamined perfectly clear and sunny. But the other side- where we were going- was quite cloudy. The cloud crept along the ridge, but could not seem to pass over to the other side. Weird!
Ascending Tizi n' Ouatter
Clouds On The Other Side Of The PassOur intrepid cook, Omar, was waiting for us at the top of the pass, with a colourful salad lunch. There was the usual pop seller there too, with his donkey. Sandra wanted to take his photo, but he was going to charge her 15 Dirham. Sadly, the top of the pass wasn't very clean; there were toilet paper and turds strewn around, which is a great shame.
Another surprisingly gentle ascent took us through a deserted village which is only used in summer, to a road. The road gently wound round to Oukaimeden, and our night stop for two nights.
Oukaimeden is a ski resort, and is a larger, more modern village, with a couple of hotels, one of which looks very out of place. There are a few 'shops'- hatches in the wall, through which are sold a whole variety of goods. We all agreed, though, that we weren't keen on Oukaimeden- it lacked the feel of the High Atlas and felt very commercialised.
Our gite was run by a french lady who was quickly named Mrs Happy (yes, that is sarcasm!) It was more upmarket than we had been used to, with proper rooms, bunk beds, lovely showers and proper toilets! We could even get coffee... me and Sandra wrote our diaries drinking milky coffee and eating chocolate- bliss!
Labels: Iabessene, Morocco, Oukaimeden, trekking
Day Three; Ouanskera to Iabessene
Today was yet another scorching hot, clear sunny day, as we set off from our gite at 7:30am. It was going to be a longer day's walking; yesterday's was a shorter day to break us in.
We climbed slowly up the valley, and passed through the village of Tachedirt, the highest of the villages in the area. Already people were up and herding livestock to the fields. The children were congregating outside the school- the orange building in the photo below.
Tachedirt Village
We had a long slog up to the pass- Tizi n' Tachedirt. Our route was an interminable zig zag up to the top of the pass at 3,200 metres. We had a few drinks stops, and one enterprising local had set himself up selling bottles of pop in the shade of a large rock. I bought a bottle, which was most welcome at the top of the pass! The hill sides were very rocky, with splashes of yellow gorse. We watched three women from the village wander back down the track laden with long grasses.
We reached the top of the pass, and stopped for dates, nuts and the loo- (men go that way, women go that way) there were most spectacular views.
View from Tizi n' Tachedirt
After this, we had a long slog of a descent- I stayed at the back; descending over steep, loose stones is definately not my forte! We stopped for a lunch break by a stream and chilled for a bit. Fortunately, the gradient of the descent evened out after this, and as the path curved around the mountainside, we could see our night stop- Iabessene.
Iabessene Village 
Iabessene and Crop Terraces
We climbed slowly up the valley, and passed through the village of Tachedirt, the highest of the villages in the area. Already people were up and herding livestock to the fields. The children were congregating outside the school- the orange building in the photo below.
Tachedirt VillageWe had a long slog up to the pass- Tizi n' Tachedirt. Our route was an interminable zig zag up to the top of the pass at 3,200 metres. We had a few drinks stops, and one enterprising local had set himself up selling bottles of pop in the shade of a large rock. I bought a bottle, which was most welcome at the top of the pass! The hill sides were very rocky, with splashes of yellow gorse. We watched three women from the village wander back down the track laden with long grasses.
We reached the top of the pass, and stopped for dates, nuts and the loo- (men go that way, women go that way) there were most spectacular views.
View from Tizi n' TachedirtAfter this, we had a long slog of a descent- I stayed at the back; descending over steep, loose stones is definately not my forte! We stopped for a lunch break by a stream and chilled for a bit. Fortunately, the gradient of the descent evened out after this, and as the path curved around the mountainside, we could see our night stop- Iabessene.
Iabessene VillageI liked Iabessene. It had a really nice, relaxed feel to it, although Ali told us we were 4 hours by mule from the nearest medical facilities. There was no electricity, but a surprisingly good shower.
The houses were built up into the hillside, in such a way as the roof of somebodies house formed a terrace for somebody else. Mine and Sandra's room opened up onto such a roof terrace. I nearly sent one of our party, an American lady, over it- she wanted a photo, and I was doing the usual British joke of saying 'back a bit...back a bit' when there is a large drop. Only she hadn't heard of the joke, and took me literally!
Today's mint tea was accompanied by gorgeous pastries, which we filled with honey and jam, and made a complete pig of ourselves, well, we had burnt it off!
Iabessene and Crop TerracesLabels: Iabessene, Morocco, Tachedirt, trekking
Monday, June 25, 2007
Day One; Marrakesh to Aremd
Right... day one- Monday 11th June, Marrakesh to Aremd;
Saturday was spent travelling, after quite an uneventful flight I arrived at Marrakesh airport and met our tour leader, Ali, a local guy who spoke excellent English (as well as Berber, his first language, and French!)
There were 10 of us on the tour; me, Sandra, a very fit lady in her 60's who I met at Heathrow, four men, and two couples, one couple were from the states. All very nice people.
We had Monday morning free in Marrakesh, but couldn't go too far as we had to be ready for departure at 12.30pm. Me and Sandra had a walk around and found a park full of pretty trees and plants.
The traffic in Marrakesh is mad, and you take your life in your hands crossing the roads- eventually we were to learn that the most effective way was to spot the locals and follow them across the road! There are lots of cyclists and scooter riders, complete with helmets slung onto the handlebars.
Marrakesh; The City Walls
We were driven to a cafe overlooking the impressive Koutobia minaret for lunch, I am afraid to say I had omelette and chips! Then we faced a two hour drive, over switch back roads and hairpin bends, through the mountains to the hamlet of Imlil.
Imlil has a real 'Wild West' feel to it; tumbledown houses, mule hiring yards and locals riding mules and donkeys up and down the streets. We had around an hour's wals to our first night stop, Aremd. It wasn't hard walking, we had quite a gentle climb up to the road that led to the hamlet.
Aremd Village
Our first night was to be spent in the village 'gite'- basically a house with rooms, all with matresses on the floor for sleeping bags, a room for eating, a kitchen and showers downstairs, and a large roof terrace plus toilets upstairs. Basic and crumbling, but adequate. Once settled in, we had the first of many afternoon refreshments of mint tea; Moroccans love their mint tea, made with green tea and fresh mint, plus lots of sugar!
After this we had a mooch round the village... what an eye opener! Really does make you appreciate what we have in the West... the houses are very basic; just mud and brick walls, with crude wooden doorframes and ill fitting wood or metal doors. Often there are very small windows without glass, and flat roofs which form terraces for the houses above. Livestock is kept on the ground floor of the houses, and the women and children drive them to the fields to graze during the day. The women must also gather long grass, which they carry on their backs to be dried out on the roofs for winter feed.
There is often no electricity, running water or toilet facilities. Very few houses have tv's. There are no roads or streets, just rocky paths between houses. People use mules as we use cars. Most people are friendly, but quite often we were followed by children calling "Bonjour? Dirham? Un stylo?" (pen) we had been warned not to give them anything but some were quite persistent.
Berber Houses
View of Jebel Toukbal (right) from Aremd
Saturday was spent travelling, after quite an uneventful flight I arrived at Marrakesh airport and met our tour leader, Ali, a local guy who spoke excellent English (as well as Berber, his first language, and French!)
There were 10 of us on the tour; me, Sandra, a very fit lady in her 60's who I met at Heathrow, four men, and two couples, one couple were from the states. All very nice people.
We had Monday morning free in Marrakesh, but couldn't go too far as we had to be ready for departure at 12.30pm. Me and Sandra had a walk around and found a park full of pretty trees and plants.
The traffic in Marrakesh is mad, and you take your life in your hands crossing the roads- eventually we were to learn that the most effective way was to spot the locals and follow them across the road! There are lots of cyclists and scooter riders, complete with helmets slung onto the handlebars.
Marrakesh; The City WallsWe were driven to a cafe overlooking the impressive Koutobia minaret for lunch, I am afraid to say I had omelette and chips! Then we faced a two hour drive, over switch back roads and hairpin bends, through the mountains to the hamlet of Imlil.
Imlil has a real 'Wild West' feel to it; tumbledown houses, mule hiring yards and locals riding mules and donkeys up and down the streets. We had around an hour's wals to our first night stop, Aremd. It wasn't hard walking, we had quite a gentle climb up to the road that led to the hamlet.
Aremd VillageOur first night was to be spent in the village 'gite'- basically a house with rooms, all with matresses on the floor for sleeping bags, a room for eating, a kitchen and showers downstairs, and a large roof terrace plus toilets upstairs. Basic and crumbling, but adequate. Once settled in, we had the first of many afternoon refreshments of mint tea; Moroccans love their mint tea, made with green tea and fresh mint, plus lots of sugar!
After this we had a mooch round the village... what an eye opener! Really does make you appreciate what we have in the West... the houses are very basic; just mud and brick walls, with crude wooden doorframes and ill fitting wood or metal doors. Often there are very small windows without glass, and flat roofs which form terraces for the houses above. Livestock is kept on the ground floor of the houses, and the women and children drive them to the fields to graze during the day. The women must also gather long grass, which they carry on their backs to be dried out on the roofs for winter feed.
There is often no electricity, running water or toilet facilities. Very few houses have tv's. There are no roads or streets, just rocky paths between houses. People use mules as we use cars. Most people are friendly, but quite often we were followed by children calling "Bonjour? Dirham? Un stylo?" (pen) we had been warned not to give them anything but some were quite persistent.
Berber Houses
View of Jebel Toukbal (right) from AremdThere were wonderful views of Jebel Toukbal from the terrace; each morning was clear and sunny, and it quickly became very hot. Later on in the afternoon, the peaks would cloud over, but the cloud would clear again during the night. I didn't see a drop of rain all fortnight- then come back to Britain and gales, rain and flood warnings!!
Labels: Aremd, High Atlas, Morocco, trekking
Sunday, June 24, 2007
I'm Back!!!
I'm back from Morocco- just in the process of sorting out my (far too many) holiday snaps, then I will post a day by day account... it was, well, a bit of a culture shock- totally different way of life, and makes you realise just how much we take for granted in the West.
Good training though; several hours walking each day, with long ascents and descents, over often rough terrain, with quite a heavy pack (fleece, plus waterproofs, which weren't actually needed, plus 3 litres of water). I was pleased to note that on the climbs I could easily keep pace with the leaders, and even felt that I could go a bit quicker; I kept dropping back to take photos and catching up again quite quickly. Downhills were another matter though, as I am really sh*te at descending over rough terrain and have to pick my way down slowly and gently.
So- watch this space- I will try to post the first accounts tomorrow, right now I have loads of washing etc to do!
Good training though; several hours walking each day, with long ascents and descents, over often rough terrain, with quite a heavy pack (fleece, plus waterproofs, which weren't actually needed, plus 3 litres of water). I was pleased to note that on the climbs I could easily keep pace with the leaders, and even felt that I could go a bit quicker; I kept dropping back to take photos and catching up again quite quickly. Downhills were another matter though, as I am really sh*te at descending over rough terrain and have to pick my way down slowly and gently.
So- watch this space- I will try to post the first accounts tomorrow, right now I have loads of washing etc to do!
Labels: High Atlas, Morocco, trekking
Sunday, June 10, 2007
Off On Holiday!!!
Right... this is it... in just a few hours I will be boarding the National Express to Heathrow, to catch my flight to Casablanca and ultimately Marrakech!
I have had a major panic over packing- my four season sleeping bag is really bulky! (And I have realised what FUN it is going to be, stuffing the thing back into it's stuff sack every morning...) I have ended up with my canvas bag for the trek, plus rucksack as hand luggage (as long as it's not to big/ bulky!) which isn't too bad... not sure what I'll do if I end up buying anything though!
Our tour itinary is as follows;
Day 1; Arrive Marrakech, check in hotel
Day 2; Morning in Marrakech, drive to Imlil, walk for approx 1 hour to Aremd
Day 3; Trek to Ouanskera over Tizi n'Tamertert into the Imenane Valley, walking approx 4 hours
Day 4; Demanding day's walk, starting with steep ascent, to Iabessene, via Tachedirt and Tizi n' Tachedirt, walking approx 6-7 hours
Day 5; Walk to Oukaimeden, via Tizi Mzlee, Agounss and Tizi n' Ouatter, walking approx 7 hours
Day 6; Free day in Oukaimeden, with optional walk up Jebel Oukaimeden (4 hours round trip) for stunning panoramic views
Day 7; Demanding day walking through Amskere through juniper forests. Head up to the Tizi-Aguersioual, walking approx 7-9 hours
Day 8; Head for Tizi-Oussem after crossing the pass at Tizi-Oudite, relaxing afternoon with the possibility of a short walk up the valley or visit to the village Hamman (think this might be a Turkish Bath!)
Day 9; Trek to Aremd via Tizi Mzik, rest of afternoon free in Aremd
Day 10; Trek to Toukbal Refuge up the Mizane Valley, via Sidi Charamouch, walking approx 4-5 hours Day 11; Optional attempt of Jebel Toukbal, North Africa's highest peak, (4165m)
Day 12; Walk to Aremd and Imlil, drive to Marrakech
Day 13; Free in Marrakech
Day 14; Come home!
No idea how to pronounce the village names!! Morocco is an hour behind us, time wise... I've looked at the weather site, weather for the next week appears to be warm (24-26) and sunny! Actually I hope it is hot- be good practice for 2009!
I really hope I get to the top of Jebel Toukbal. I am now worrying that everybody is going to be much fitter than me!! Poor Lucky is not going to be happy as Katie will need to take her to the cattery Friday- they are going to Norfolk while I'm away.
I doubt whether I will be able to update this before I return- so I will give a quick outline when I get back and go into more detail for each day. With photos!
See you when I get back!
I have had a major panic over packing- my four season sleeping bag is really bulky! (And I have realised what FUN it is going to be, stuffing the thing back into it's stuff sack every morning...) I have ended up with my canvas bag for the trek, plus rucksack as hand luggage (as long as it's not to big/ bulky!) which isn't too bad... not sure what I'll do if I end up buying anything though!
Our tour itinary is as follows;
Day 1; Arrive Marrakech, check in hotel
Day 2; Morning in Marrakech, drive to Imlil, walk for approx 1 hour to Aremd
Day 3; Trek to Ouanskera over Tizi n'Tamertert into the Imenane Valley, walking approx 4 hours
Day 4; Demanding day's walk, starting with steep ascent, to Iabessene, via Tachedirt and Tizi n' Tachedirt, walking approx 6-7 hours
Day 5; Walk to Oukaimeden, via Tizi Mzlee, Agounss and Tizi n' Ouatter, walking approx 7 hours
Day 6; Free day in Oukaimeden, with optional walk up Jebel Oukaimeden (4 hours round trip) for stunning panoramic views
Day 7; Demanding day walking through Amskere through juniper forests. Head up to the Tizi-Aguersioual, walking approx 7-9 hours
Day 8; Head for Tizi-Oussem after crossing the pass at Tizi-Oudite, relaxing afternoon with the possibility of a short walk up the valley or visit to the village Hamman (think this might be a Turkish Bath!)
Day 9; Trek to Aremd via Tizi Mzik, rest of afternoon free in Aremd
Day 10; Trek to Toukbal Refuge up the Mizane Valley, via Sidi Charamouch, walking approx 4-5 hours Day 11; Optional attempt of Jebel Toukbal, North Africa's highest peak, (4165m)
Day 12; Walk to Aremd and Imlil, drive to Marrakech
Day 13; Free in Marrakech
Day 14; Come home!
No idea how to pronounce the village names!! Morocco is an hour behind us, time wise... I've looked at the weather site, weather for the next week appears to be warm (24-26) and sunny! Actually I hope it is hot- be good practice for 2009!
I really hope I get to the top of Jebel Toukbal. I am now worrying that everybody is going to be much fitter than me!! Poor Lucky is not going to be happy as Katie will need to take her to the cattery Friday- they are going to Norfolk while I'm away.
I doubt whether I will be able to update this before I return- so I will give a quick outline when I get back and go into more detail for each day. With photos!
See you when I get back!
Labels: High Atlas, holiday, Jebel Toukbal, Morocco, trekking
Saturday, April 21, 2007
Damn and Blast!
Blast!! I decided to do a short, slow run last night, and had quite a bit of discomfort from my heel. I ended up doing an extremely slow 4 1/2 miles.
Oddly enough, it feels absolutely fine today... not a trace of any discomfort however I move it!
Could it be the new shoes?? I'm not really sure what to do now; whether to run again in the old shoes and see how it feels, or just persevere with the new ones.
It's bloody typical; I feel that I am right at the start of my MdS training and I have a bloody injury!
On a bit of a lighter (literally!) note, I kept a diary of treks I've done in the past- Peru in 2003 and the Tour de Mont Blanc in 2004. I intend to create a web site about these when I get the chance! Anyway, I kept a diary, which I haverecently been rereading. It's quite funny! When I did these treks, I weighed around 12 1/2 stones, and the diary entries were filled with panic about not losing weight and not doing more exercise.... I used to worry like mad before I went!
I am off to Morocco in a few weeks, trekking in the Atlas Mountains with Explore Worldwide, and I'm not worried! Cos I'm now 9 stone 10lbs and a heck of a lot fitter!
Oddly enough, it feels absolutely fine today... not a trace of any discomfort however I move it!
Could it be the new shoes?? I'm not really sure what to do now; whether to run again in the old shoes and see how it feels, or just persevere with the new ones.
It's bloody typical; I feel that I am right at the start of my MdS training and I have a bloody injury!
On a bit of a lighter (literally!) note, I kept a diary of treks I've done in the past- Peru in 2003 and the Tour de Mont Blanc in 2004. I intend to create a web site about these when I get the chance! Anyway, I kept a diary, which I haverecently been rereading. It's quite funny! When I did these treks, I weighed around 12 1/2 stones, and the diary entries were filled with panic about not losing weight and not doing more exercise.... I used to worry like mad before I went!
I am off to Morocco in a few weeks, trekking in the Atlas Mountains with Explore Worldwide, and I'm not worried! Cos I'm now 9 stone 10lbs and a heck of a lot fitter!
Labels: achilles pain, Explore, Morocco, trekking
